To Mark, or Not to Mark
Of course that is the question, but only you (and your client) can decide the answer! Whenever you choose to mark a quilt with any method, test your marks on the back of the quilt in the seam allowances to be sure you can successfully remove them. Test any fabric which you intend to mark-especially lighter fabrics or those with special coatings that may affect how much pressure you apply with your tool.
For water-soluble marking tools, testing is imperative. These tools need a large number of water molecules in relation to the chemical molecules in the ink so that they will lift completely from the fabric. This usually means completely soaking the quilt in cool water (sometimes several times) to make the ink vanish. Lightly spraying or misting the fabric with water will push the ink into the batting, only to come back and haunt you later. Many water-soluble inks can become permanent if exposed to heat (such as an iron, sunlight, or even a hot car). Take necessary precautions and remove the ink as soon as you are finished quilting. You can even use special pens designed to immediately remove the marks from your fabric. Clover is one brand that carries such a tool...visit your local quilt shop to find out more.
To keep your water soluble marking pens in top working condition, quiltmaker Debra Wagner advises that you store the markers in self-sealing plastic bags to prevent evaporation. Debra also places her markers in a tall tin container in the vertical position with the tip facing down, so that the ink will flow easily whenever she wants to use the marker.
Showing posts with label fabric. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fabric. Show all posts
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Friday, July 9, 2010
Interesting Quilts
Your quilt will be much more interesting and lively if you try to vary fabric proportion and value in addition to color.
The more closely your fabrics resemble each other in these areas, the faster the viewer will scan over your quilt and dismiss it as "average". Start with the fabric's scale. Mix large prints with small-blend florals, geometrics, plaids and stripes. Modern designer Kaffe Fassett is a prime example of someone who has mastered varying fabric scale to create vibrant patterns.
Fabric value introduces another dimension to creating a lively, exciting quilt. Think about walking through a forest filled with beautiful trees. If every leaf, rock and piece of bark was exactly the same color, you would be lost no matter how many different sizes of leaves you found along your path. For example, try incorporating greens with some blue hues to them, some with yellow tones, and even some with black undertones.
If you expand your palette, you'll be amazed at how rich your quilts will look. Besides, it will give you another reason to add to your fabric stash!
The office supply store can help you audition your quilting designs quickly and easily.
Make a sketch of your quilt or take a digital photograph and print it on 8-1/2" x 11" paper. Slip the paper into a clear plastic page protector. Use a fine-point dry erase marker to audition your quilting ideas right on the plastic. Use a paper towel to wipe the marks off until you are happy with your results. Be sure to keep your sheet protector and markers away from your quilt!
You can also purchase clear vinyl at your local fabric shop or discount store for larger designs. Put masking tape around all the edges of the vinyl so that you clearly see each edge. Then lay the vinyl piece over your actual quilt top and use those same dry-erase markers to audition different designs. You can also try transparency markers, which will require water to remove. But be careful...the masking tape helps keep you "in bounds" so that you don't accidentally draw on your quilt!
The more closely your fabrics resemble each other in these areas, the faster the viewer will scan over your quilt and dismiss it as "average". Start with the fabric's scale. Mix large prints with small-blend florals, geometrics, plaids and stripes. Modern designer Kaffe Fassett is a prime example of someone who has mastered varying fabric scale to create vibrant patterns.
Fabric value introduces another dimension to creating a lively, exciting quilt. Think about walking through a forest filled with beautiful trees. If every leaf, rock and piece of bark was exactly the same color, you would be lost no matter how many different sizes of leaves you found along your path. For example, try incorporating greens with some blue hues to them, some with yellow tones, and even some with black undertones.
If you expand your palette, you'll be amazed at how rich your quilts will look. Besides, it will give you another reason to add to your fabric stash!
The office supply store can help you audition your quilting designs quickly and easily.
Make a sketch of your quilt or take a digital photograph and print it on 8-1/2" x 11" paper. Slip the paper into a clear plastic page protector. Use a fine-point dry erase marker to audition your quilting ideas right on the plastic. Use a paper towel to wipe the marks off until you are happy with your results. Be sure to keep your sheet protector and markers away from your quilt!
You can also purchase clear vinyl at your local fabric shop or discount store for larger designs. Put masking tape around all the edges of the vinyl so that you clearly see each edge. Then lay the vinyl piece over your actual quilt top and use those same dry-erase markers to audition different designs. You can also try transparency markers, which will require water to remove. But be careful...the masking tape helps keep you "in bounds" so that you don't accidentally draw on your quilt!
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Cutting Fabric
You Can Avoid the "Bends" when Cutting Your Fabric Cross-grain
Rotary cutters have greatly improved the speed at which we can complete our quilt tops. However, in our haste we sometimes end up with long fabric strips that have a bend or unusual sharp point at the midpoint. To avoid this mishap, you must take the time to fold your fabric correctly before wielding your rotary cutter.
Press your fabric to remove the influence of the bolt fold, and then fold it so that the selvages are together. Then pick up the selvages in both hands and slide the selvages from side to side along each other until the fabric's fold is flat. Lay the fabric back down on your work surface and fold the fabric in half again, bringing the fold to the selvage edges so that they line up.
Now you have one edge that is a fold and two selvage edges. Those must all align with each other. When you are confident that the edges are straight, align your rotary cutting ruler with the fold of the fabric, and slice away!
Rotary cutters have greatly improved the speed at which we can complete our quilt tops. However, in our haste we sometimes end up with long fabric strips that have a bend or unusual sharp point at the midpoint. To avoid this mishap, you must take the time to fold your fabric correctly before wielding your rotary cutter.
Press your fabric to remove the influence of the bolt fold, and then fold it so that the selvages are together. Then pick up the selvages in both hands and slide the selvages from side to side along each other until the fabric's fold is flat. Lay the fabric back down on your work surface and fold the fabric in half again, bringing the fold to the selvage edges so that they line up.
Now you have one edge that is a fold and two selvage edges. Those must all align with each other. When you are confident that the edges are straight, align your rotary cutting ruler with the fold of the fabric, and slice away!
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Taking Photos of Quilts
Turn off your flash for great quilt detail photos.
The quilt show season is in full swing, and quilters everywhere will be sharing "oohs" and "aahs" as they ogle each of the quilts hanging proudly in the shows. We are inevitably struck with the beauty and originality of each work, and try to capture the essence of those which inspire us most with photographs.
Here are some tips to getting the most from your digital camera. You've discovered the first hint in the last sentence...get a digital camera! You'll find many inexpensive types on the market today; look for a model that allows you to turn off the flash, has a "macro" feature to get close up photos, and has at least 3 megapixels of memory. Digital cameras give you instant feedback; you are able to tell right away whether your photo illustrates what you want it to.
If you find the quilt's complete layout and design pleasing, stand back away from the quilt, and frame it inside your view screen. Depending on the venue's lighting, you may want to try a photo with flash first, and then turn the flash off. However, if you are more interested in the quilting stitches and design, you'll want to take close-up photos.
For these shots, you want to use the room's typical ceiling and side lights to your advantage. The shadows this lighting direction creates will define the quilting stitches and make them very dynamic in your photos. Turn your flash off. Move in to your close up area and try one photo, using your camera's zoom lens and automatic focus feature. If that photo is not crisp, use the macro feature of your camera. This special feature allows your camera to focus more clearly with very close objects.
Finally, consider taking photos of the quilts you DON'T like as well as those you do. Make notes about what you thought did and didn't work in each of the quilts, including color combinations, design layouts, and quilt density. Be sure to transfer your photos to your computer, or visit your nearest photo center if you need help getting them off your memory device. Store your photos in special folders on your computer labeled according to your categories to find them easily for your future design work.
Happy Quilt Show shooting.
The quilt show season is in full swing, and quilters everywhere will be sharing "oohs" and "aahs" as they ogle each of the quilts hanging proudly in the shows. We are inevitably struck with the beauty and originality of each work, and try to capture the essence of those which inspire us most with photographs.
Here are some tips to getting the most from your digital camera. You've discovered the first hint in the last sentence...get a digital camera! You'll find many inexpensive types on the market today; look for a model that allows you to turn off the flash, has a "macro" feature to get close up photos, and has at least 3 megapixels of memory. Digital cameras give you instant feedback; you are able to tell right away whether your photo illustrates what you want it to.
If you find the quilt's complete layout and design pleasing, stand back away from the quilt, and frame it inside your view screen. Depending on the venue's lighting, you may want to try a photo with flash first, and then turn the flash off. However, if you are more interested in the quilting stitches and design, you'll want to take close-up photos.
For these shots, you want to use the room's typical ceiling and side lights to your advantage. The shadows this lighting direction creates will define the quilting stitches and make them very dynamic in your photos. Turn your flash off. Move in to your close up area and try one photo, using your camera's zoom lens and automatic focus feature. If that photo is not crisp, use the macro feature of your camera. This special feature allows your camera to focus more clearly with very close objects.
Finally, consider taking photos of the quilts you DON'T like as well as those you do. Make notes about what you thought did and didn't work in each of the quilts, including color combinations, design layouts, and quilt density. Be sure to transfer your photos to your computer, or visit your nearest photo center if you need help getting them off your memory device. Store your photos in special folders on your computer labeled according to your categories to find them easily for your future design work.
Happy Quilt Show shooting.
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Quilt Backing
The seam direction of your backing depends on the quilt's use.
If you are lucky enough to have a well-stocked quilt shop near you, you may be able to purchase wide quilt backing fabric and avoid having seams altogether. However, not all wide backings maintain the same quality. Check carefully before investing in this fabric. Pay special attention to "white on white" backing fabric where part of the design appears to be painted on to the fabric. Longarm needles will perforate and crumble the paint, causing tension issues, more thread breakage, and needle holes that may not recover.
When you are forced to piece fabric strips to create backing large enough for your quilt top, choose the seam direction based on the quilt's use in addition to ease of loading on your frame. Generally, horizontal backing seams are much easier to handle than vertical seams, since the seam will lay parallel to the roller instead of creating bulk as it wraps around the roller.
However, if the quilt will hang on a wall, then situating the backing fabric so that the lengthwise grain runs "top to bottom" will reduce stress on the quilt and prevent sagging and stretching. In this instance vertical seams may be more appropriate.
When you sew backing pieces together, be sure to remove the selvage edges along the seam line. You can decrease the bulk in the seam even further by pressing the seam open instead of to one side. Select a stitch length of 11-12 stitches per inch to secure the open seam better.
If you are lucky enough to have a well-stocked quilt shop near you, you may be able to purchase wide quilt backing fabric and avoid having seams altogether. However, not all wide backings maintain the same quality. Check carefully before investing in this fabric. Pay special attention to "white on white" backing fabric where part of the design appears to be painted on to the fabric. Longarm needles will perforate and crumble the paint, causing tension issues, more thread breakage, and needle holes that may not recover.
When you are forced to piece fabric strips to create backing large enough for your quilt top, choose the seam direction based on the quilt's use in addition to ease of loading on your frame. Generally, horizontal backing seams are much easier to handle than vertical seams, since the seam will lay parallel to the roller instead of creating bulk as it wraps around the roller.
However, if the quilt will hang on a wall, then situating the backing fabric so that the lengthwise grain runs "top to bottom" will reduce stress on the quilt and prevent sagging and stretching. In this instance vertical seams may be more appropriate.
When you sew backing pieces together, be sure to remove the selvage edges along the seam line. You can decrease the bulk in the seam even further by pressing the seam open instead of to one side. Select a stitch length of 11-12 stitches per inch to secure the open seam better.
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Quilt Fabric Tips
As much as quilters love buying new fabric, it's amazing how difficult it can be to actually bring ourselves to make the first cut into that beautiful yard of material!
If you are reluctant to get out the scissors to create audition pieces for your quilt, try making photocopies instead. You can do this by scanning the fabric into your computer with a flatbed scanner, or by using an all-in-one printer/copier attached to your computer.
If you don't have either of these devices, make the copies at your local office supply store or copy center.
First make several color copies of your fabric choices, and then make a few black and white copies as well. Cut apart the photocopies into your patches for your blocks and audition each one without endangering your actual fabric stash!
Once you have chosen fabrics that work well in your design, substitute the black and white photocopies for your patches. Since the color doesn't distract you in these copies, you can determine if the value and contrast in each fabric is correct, along with the scale and proportion of the prints.
Photocopies cost just a few pennies and are easily reproduced...but slicing into your fabric prematurely can be costly and traumatic!
If you are reluctant to get out the scissors to create audition pieces for your quilt, try making photocopies instead. You can do this by scanning the fabric into your computer with a flatbed scanner, or by using an all-in-one printer/copier attached to your computer.
If you don't have either of these devices, make the copies at your local office supply store or copy center.
First make several color copies of your fabric choices, and then make a few black and white copies as well. Cut apart the photocopies into your patches for your blocks and audition each one without endangering your actual fabric stash!
Once you have chosen fabrics that work well in your design, substitute the black and white photocopies for your patches. Since the color doesn't distract you in these copies, you can determine if the value and contrast in each fabric is correct, along with the scale and proportion of the prints.
Photocopies cost just a few pennies and are easily reproduced...but slicing into your fabric prematurely can be costly and traumatic!
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
Rotary Cutters
Rotary cutter blades are actually supposed to rotate! Many quilters mistakenly believe that the rotary cutter should perform like a knife, sawing through the fabric layers. However, a rotary cutter blade should turn freely, just like a pizza cutter.
If you have your locking screw set so tightly that the rotary cutter blade does not move, your blade and cutting mat will wear out prematurely, and you'll fatigue much more quickly as you try to "bear down" to cut through multiple fabric layers with a fixed blade. While you're at it, give your rotary cutter a little TLC and you'll reap the rewards of clean, crisp cuts.
Carefully disassemble your cutter, laying the pieces in sequential order on your table so that you can easily put it back together. If you're nervous about being able to reassemble it, put your digital camera to good use and snap photographs at each stage of disassembly to help guide you later.
Wipe lint buildup from behind the cutting blade. Next add one small drop of sewing machine oil (you may use the oil that came with your longarm) on the plastic surface that sits next to your blade. This small amount of lubrication prevents rust and keeps the blade spinning smoothly.
Reassemble the cutter, keeping in mind that the nut holding the blade should be loose enough that the blade rotates as you slice your fabric. If your cleaning and readjustment don't greatly improve your cutter's performance, it may be time for a new blade!
If you have your locking screw set so tightly that the rotary cutter blade does not move, your blade and cutting mat will wear out prematurely, and you'll fatigue much more quickly as you try to "bear down" to cut through multiple fabric layers with a fixed blade. While you're at it, give your rotary cutter a little TLC and you'll reap the rewards of clean, crisp cuts.
Carefully disassemble your cutter, laying the pieces in sequential order on your table so that you can easily put it back together. If you're nervous about being able to reassemble it, put your digital camera to good use and snap photographs at each stage of disassembly to help guide you later.
Wipe lint buildup from behind the cutting blade. Next add one small drop of sewing machine oil (you may use the oil that came with your longarm) on the plastic surface that sits next to your blade. This small amount of lubrication prevents rust and keeps the blade spinning smoothly.
Reassemble the cutter, keeping in mind that the nut holding the blade should be loose enough that the blade rotates as you slice your fabric. If your cleaning and readjustment don't greatly improve your cutter's performance, it may be time for a new blade!
Tuesday, April 6, 2010
Choosing the correct fabric for quilt backing
You can determine whether fabric will be a good choice for quilt backing by evaluating its selvedge edges in addition to its color and pattern.
Study the fabric at the store to avoid disappointment later. Look at the selvedge edges of the fabric, specifically where the mounting pins held the yardage in place for dyeing (you'll see small holes along the selvedge edge.) Check the right side of the fabric along this strip. If you see small white or light areas surrounding those pin holes, it means that the fabric dye did not completely penetrate each warp or weft yarn. When the pins holding the fabric for processing penetrated the selvedge, they exposed the lighter side of each fiber, making the fabric's "wrong side" visible through the pin holes.
Why is this important to a longarm quilter? Since your needle is very large and will also penetrate the backing fabric from "wrong side" to "right side" your needle could also expose the lighter side of the backing fabric around every needle hole. This phenomenon is often confused with batting bearding or a dull needle. In fact, the fabric itself is the culprit!
Study the fabric at the store to avoid disappointment later. Look at the selvedge edges of the fabric, specifically where the mounting pins held the yardage in place for dyeing (you'll see small holes along the selvedge edge.) Check the right side of the fabric along this strip. If you see small white or light areas surrounding those pin holes, it means that the fabric dye did not completely penetrate each warp or weft yarn. When the pins holding the fabric for processing penetrated the selvedge, they exposed the lighter side of each fiber, making the fabric's "wrong side" visible through the pin holes.
Why is this important to a longarm quilter? Since your needle is very large and will also penetrate the backing fabric from "wrong side" to "right side" your needle could also expose the lighter side of the backing fabric around every needle hole. This phenomenon is often confused with batting bearding or a dull needle. In fact, the fabric itself is the culprit!
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