Okay, before you get nervous, we don't mean your extra large version...think about the smaller one-inch blade version instead. The technique is certainly not for the faint of heart, but many quilters swear it greatly reduces their "unsewing time" after making a piecing mistake. (Obviously, this is not for removing a quilting mistake.)
Skilled rippers have learned to hold the two fabric pieces in their hands so that the rotary cutter is held like a pencil or pen. One piece of fabric is held taut between the thumb and forefinger of your non-dominant hand, and the other fabric piece is held by the three remaining fingers of your dominant hand, pressing the fabric against your palm.
With both hands separating the seam that must be ripped, use the cutting blade (you can expose just the very end if you like) to "slice" the threads holding the pieces together. Continue to keep the fabric taut between your hands to expose the piecing thread.
If this isn't for you, then make sure the seam ripper you ARE using is sharp. Quilters tend to hold on to utensils way past their useful lifespan. Treat yourself to a new seam ripper if you have to work hard slice your threads...after all, you're worth it!
Showing posts with label rotary cutter. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rotary cutter. Show all posts
Thursday, August 12, 2010
You can "Rip" with a Rotary Cutter
Friday, July 23, 2010
Rotary Cutting Mats
Rotary cutting mats are not created equally.
Most modern-day quilters cannot fathom cutting out quilts by tracing around cardboard templates and wielding a scissors. Despite the fabulous quilts early piecers created with these simple tools, rotary cutters and mats have dramatically reduced the time investment in each project while increasing piecing accuracy.
Don't sacrifice the benefits of this cutting-edge technology (pun intended) by allowing your cutting mat to distort your accuracy. Soft plastic mats are typically made of white translucent plastic and often have a smooth side and a textured side. These soft mats are the only ones that will roll easily for storage. Their softness allows the surface to accept pins to help manage difficult fabric. However, the soft surface can also scar from rotary cutter blades, and repeated cuts in the same area could affect the accuracy of your cuts.
Hard plastic mats are thinner than soft mats, and don't scar as easily. Some brands are guaranteed not to warp, crack or peel. However, generic mats made of green plastic will not hold up to lots of handling, such as toting back and forth to quilting class. These mats can chip and crack with changes in temperature.
Self-healing mats are great for quilters because their three layers help cushion and protect the rotary blade without leaving permanent grooves in the mat. These mats often have a different color on each side to help you see your fabrics more clearly. Self-healing mats are the most expensive mats, but also add some big benefits. Each type of mat has a place in quilting studios; choose a mat based on your quilting style and space.
Most modern-day quilters cannot fathom cutting out quilts by tracing around cardboard templates and wielding a scissors. Despite the fabulous quilts early piecers created with these simple tools, rotary cutters and mats have dramatically reduced the time investment in each project while increasing piecing accuracy.
Don't sacrifice the benefits of this cutting-edge technology (pun intended) by allowing your cutting mat to distort your accuracy. Soft plastic mats are typically made of white translucent plastic and often have a smooth side and a textured side. These soft mats are the only ones that will roll easily for storage. Their softness allows the surface to accept pins to help manage difficult fabric. However, the soft surface can also scar from rotary cutter blades, and repeated cuts in the same area could affect the accuracy of your cuts.
Hard plastic mats are thinner than soft mats, and don't scar as easily. Some brands are guaranteed not to warp, crack or peel. However, generic mats made of green plastic will not hold up to lots of handling, such as toting back and forth to quilting class. These mats can chip and crack with changes in temperature.
Self-healing mats are great for quilters because their three layers help cushion and protect the rotary blade without leaving permanent grooves in the mat. These mats often have a different color on each side to help you see your fabrics more clearly. Self-healing mats are the most expensive mats, but also add some big benefits. Each type of mat has a place in quilting studios; choose a mat based on your quilting style and space.
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Cutting Fabric
You Can Avoid the "Bends" when Cutting Your Fabric Cross-grain
Rotary cutters have greatly improved the speed at which we can complete our quilt tops. However, in our haste we sometimes end up with long fabric strips that have a bend or unusual sharp point at the midpoint. To avoid this mishap, you must take the time to fold your fabric correctly before wielding your rotary cutter.
Press your fabric to remove the influence of the bolt fold, and then fold it so that the selvages are together. Then pick up the selvages in both hands and slide the selvages from side to side along each other until the fabric's fold is flat. Lay the fabric back down on your work surface and fold the fabric in half again, bringing the fold to the selvage edges so that they line up.
Now you have one edge that is a fold and two selvage edges. Those must all align with each other. When you are confident that the edges are straight, align your rotary cutting ruler with the fold of the fabric, and slice away!
Rotary cutters have greatly improved the speed at which we can complete our quilt tops. However, in our haste we sometimes end up with long fabric strips that have a bend or unusual sharp point at the midpoint. To avoid this mishap, you must take the time to fold your fabric correctly before wielding your rotary cutter.
Press your fabric to remove the influence of the bolt fold, and then fold it so that the selvages are together. Then pick up the selvages in both hands and slide the selvages from side to side along each other until the fabric's fold is flat. Lay the fabric back down on your work surface and fold the fabric in half again, bringing the fold to the selvage edges so that they line up.
Now you have one edge that is a fold and two selvage edges. Those must all align with each other. When you are confident that the edges are straight, align your rotary cutting ruler with the fold of the fabric, and slice away!
Labels:
cutting,
fabric,
fold,
iron,
labeling a quilt,
quilt,
quilting,
rotary cutter
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
Rotary Cutters
Rotary cutter blades are actually supposed to rotate! Many quilters mistakenly believe that the rotary cutter should perform like a knife, sawing through the fabric layers. However, a rotary cutter blade should turn freely, just like a pizza cutter.
If you have your locking screw set so tightly that the rotary cutter blade does not move, your blade and cutting mat will wear out prematurely, and you'll fatigue much more quickly as you try to "bear down" to cut through multiple fabric layers with a fixed blade. While you're at it, give your rotary cutter a little TLC and you'll reap the rewards of clean, crisp cuts.
Carefully disassemble your cutter, laying the pieces in sequential order on your table so that you can easily put it back together. If you're nervous about being able to reassemble it, put your digital camera to good use and snap photographs at each stage of disassembly to help guide you later.
Wipe lint buildup from behind the cutting blade. Next add one small drop of sewing machine oil (you may use the oil that came with your longarm) on the plastic surface that sits next to your blade. This small amount of lubrication prevents rust and keeps the blade spinning smoothly.
Reassemble the cutter, keeping in mind that the nut holding the blade should be loose enough that the blade rotates as you slice your fabric. If your cleaning and readjustment don't greatly improve your cutter's performance, it may be time for a new blade!
If you have your locking screw set so tightly that the rotary cutter blade does not move, your blade and cutting mat will wear out prematurely, and you'll fatigue much more quickly as you try to "bear down" to cut through multiple fabric layers with a fixed blade. While you're at it, give your rotary cutter a little TLC and you'll reap the rewards of clean, crisp cuts.
Carefully disassemble your cutter, laying the pieces in sequential order on your table so that you can easily put it back together. If you're nervous about being able to reassemble it, put your digital camera to good use and snap photographs at each stage of disassembly to help guide you later.
Wipe lint buildup from behind the cutting blade. Next add one small drop of sewing machine oil (you may use the oil that came with your longarm) on the plastic surface that sits next to your blade. This small amount of lubrication prevents rust and keeps the blade spinning smoothly.
Reassemble the cutter, keeping in mind that the nut holding the blade should be loose enough that the blade rotates as you slice your fabric. If your cleaning and readjustment don't greatly improve your cutter's performance, it may be time for a new blade!
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