Okay, before you get nervous, we don't mean your extra large version...think about the smaller one-inch blade version instead. The technique is certainly not for the faint of heart, but many quilters swear it greatly reduces their "unsewing time" after making a piecing mistake. (Obviously, this is not for removing a quilting mistake.)
Skilled rippers have learned to hold the two fabric pieces in their hands so that the rotary cutter is held like a pencil or pen. One piece of fabric is held taut between the thumb and forefinger of your non-dominant hand, and the other fabric piece is held by the three remaining fingers of your dominant hand, pressing the fabric against your palm.
With both hands separating the seam that must be ripped, use the cutting blade (you can expose just the very end if you like) to "slice" the threads holding the pieces together. Continue to keep the fabric taut between your hands to expose the piecing thread.
If this isn't for you, then make sure the seam ripper you ARE using is sharp. Quilters tend to hold on to utensils way past their useful lifespan. Treat yourself to a new seam ripper if you have to work hard slice your threads...after all, you're worth it!
Showing posts with label sewing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sewing. Show all posts
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Friday, July 9, 2010
Interesting Quilts
Your quilt will be much more interesting and lively if you try to vary fabric proportion and value in addition to color.
The more closely your fabrics resemble each other in these areas, the faster the viewer will scan over your quilt and dismiss it as "average". Start with the fabric's scale. Mix large prints with small-blend florals, geometrics, plaids and stripes. Modern designer Kaffe Fassett is a prime example of someone who has mastered varying fabric scale to create vibrant patterns.
Fabric value introduces another dimension to creating a lively, exciting quilt. Think about walking through a forest filled with beautiful trees. If every leaf, rock and piece of bark was exactly the same color, you would be lost no matter how many different sizes of leaves you found along your path. For example, try incorporating greens with some blue hues to them, some with yellow tones, and even some with black undertones.
If you expand your palette, you'll be amazed at how rich your quilts will look. Besides, it will give you another reason to add to your fabric stash!
The office supply store can help you audition your quilting designs quickly and easily.
Make a sketch of your quilt or take a digital photograph and print it on 8-1/2" x 11" paper. Slip the paper into a clear plastic page protector. Use a fine-point dry erase marker to audition your quilting ideas right on the plastic. Use a paper towel to wipe the marks off until you are happy with your results. Be sure to keep your sheet protector and markers away from your quilt!
You can also purchase clear vinyl at your local fabric shop or discount store for larger designs. Put masking tape around all the edges of the vinyl so that you clearly see each edge. Then lay the vinyl piece over your actual quilt top and use those same dry-erase markers to audition different designs. You can also try transparency markers, which will require water to remove. But be careful...the masking tape helps keep you "in bounds" so that you don't accidentally draw on your quilt!
The more closely your fabrics resemble each other in these areas, the faster the viewer will scan over your quilt and dismiss it as "average". Start with the fabric's scale. Mix large prints with small-blend florals, geometrics, plaids and stripes. Modern designer Kaffe Fassett is a prime example of someone who has mastered varying fabric scale to create vibrant patterns.
Fabric value introduces another dimension to creating a lively, exciting quilt. Think about walking through a forest filled with beautiful trees. If every leaf, rock and piece of bark was exactly the same color, you would be lost no matter how many different sizes of leaves you found along your path. For example, try incorporating greens with some blue hues to them, some with yellow tones, and even some with black undertones.
If you expand your palette, you'll be amazed at how rich your quilts will look. Besides, it will give you another reason to add to your fabric stash!
The office supply store can help you audition your quilting designs quickly and easily.
Make a sketch of your quilt or take a digital photograph and print it on 8-1/2" x 11" paper. Slip the paper into a clear plastic page protector. Use a fine-point dry erase marker to audition your quilting ideas right on the plastic. Use a paper towel to wipe the marks off until you are happy with your results. Be sure to keep your sheet protector and markers away from your quilt!
You can also purchase clear vinyl at your local fabric shop or discount store for larger designs. Put masking tape around all the edges of the vinyl so that you clearly see each edge. Then lay the vinyl piece over your actual quilt top and use those same dry-erase markers to audition different designs. You can also try transparency markers, which will require water to remove. But be careful...the masking tape helps keep you "in bounds" so that you don't accidentally draw on your quilt!
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Rounding Corners on Square Quilts is Easy
While many of us have taken to producing quilts that will serve as wall art instead of "bed art", it's still helpful to know how to round off the edges of your quilt. This can be especially helpful if your quilt will fall to the floor on your bed, where you can accidentally trip on the excess fabric at the corners of the mattress.
To round off the corners of your bed quilt, first measure the length of the drop from the top edge of the bed to the floor. Next, draw a square on a piece of paper that's large enough so that the square's sides are the same length as the drop to the floor. You can then create a hand-made compass to draw the curve or rounded corner for your bed quilt. Wrap some yarn or string around a pencil, and align the pencil tip so that it is positioned at one corner of the square on your paper. Wrap the remaining string end around a straight pin, and insert the pin into one of the corners closest to the pencil tip (not the opposite corner).
Be sure the string is taut between the pencil tip and pin tip. Draw an arc from one corner of the square, around to the opposite corner. Use this pattern to "round off" your quilt across the border corners. This technique works well for single fabric borders as well as appliqué borders where a twining vine can wander around the corner.
To round off the corners of your bed quilt, first measure the length of the drop from the top edge of the bed to the floor. Next, draw a square on a piece of paper that's large enough so that the square's sides are the same length as the drop to the floor. You can then create a hand-made compass to draw the curve or rounded corner for your bed quilt. Wrap some yarn or string around a pencil, and align the pencil tip so that it is positioned at one corner of the square on your paper. Wrap the remaining string end around a straight pin, and insert the pin into one of the corners closest to the pencil tip (not the opposite corner).
Be sure the string is taut between the pencil tip and pin tip. Draw an arc from one corner of the square, around to the opposite corner. Use this pattern to "round off" your quilt across the border corners. This technique works well for single fabric borders as well as appliqué borders where a twining vine can wander around the corner.
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Stitch in the Ditch with Longarm Quilting
Accurate Stitching in the Ditch Depends on Ruler Placement
Domestic machine quilters have an advantage over longarm quilters when it comes to stitching in the ditch. When using a domestic machine, one can use both hands to gently pull the seam apart. This allows the needle to place stitches on the "low side" of the seam, which become hidden when the fabric is released and the top fabric gently folds over the stitching.
However, longarm quilters must use guiding rulers to help them stay on target stitching next to seams and fabric folds. One hand must drive the machine while the other must hold the guiding ruler in position. To increase your success rate with a longarm machine, think about where you place your ruler before you begin to stitch.
If you place the guiding ruler on top of the seam allowance (the high side of the seam), then your hand's pressure causes the top fabric layer to fold over slightly and hide the space where you want your stitches to fall. You may think you're doing an excellent job of "staying in the ditch" until you remove your hand and ruler. Once the top fabric layer relaxes back into position, your stitches will appear to be too far away from the seam, even when they looked perfect just moments before!
Whenever possible, position your ruler on the low side of any seam (the side without the seam allowances underneath). Use invisible thread to also boost your confidence for those occasional misses we all suffer!
Domestic machine quilters have an advantage over longarm quilters when it comes to stitching in the ditch. When using a domestic machine, one can use both hands to gently pull the seam apart. This allows the needle to place stitches on the "low side" of the seam, which become hidden when the fabric is released and the top fabric gently folds over the stitching.
However, longarm quilters must use guiding rulers to help them stay on target stitching next to seams and fabric folds. One hand must drive the machine while the other must hold the guiding ruler in position. To increase your success rate with a longarm machine, think about where you place your ruler before you begin to stitch.
If you place the guiding ruler on top of the seam allowance (the high side of the seam), then your hand's pressure causes the top fabric layer to fold over slightly and hide the space where you want your stitches to fall. You may think you're doing an excellent job of "staying in the ditch" until you remove your hand and ruler. Once the top fabric layer relaxes back into position, your stitches will appear to be too far away from the seam, even when they looked perfect just moments before!
Whenever possible, position your ruler on the low side of any seam (the side without the seam allowances underneath). Use invisible thread to also boost your confidence for those occasional misses we all suffer!
Long Arm Ruler Placement
Accurate Stitching in the Ditch Depends on Ruler Placement
Domestic machine quilters have an advantage over longarm quilters when it comes to stitching in the ditch. When using a domestic machine, one can use both hands to gently pull the seam apart. This allows the needle to place stitches on the "low side" of the seam, which become hidden when the fabric is released and the top fabric gently folds over the stitching.
However, longarm quilters must use guiding rulers to help them stay on target stitching next to seams and fabric folds. One hand must drive the machine while the other must hold the guiding ruler in position. To increase your success rate with a longarm machine, think about where you place your ruler before you begin to stitch.
If you place the guiding ruler on top of the seam allowance (the high side of the seam), then your hand's pressure causes the top fabric layer to fold over slightly and hide the space where you want your stitches to fall. You may think you're doing an excellent job of "staying in the ditch" until you remove your hand and ruler. Once the top fabric layer relaxes back into position, your stitches will appear to be too far away from the seam, even when they looked perfect just moments before!
Whenever possible, position your ruler on the low side of any seam (the side without the seam allowances underneath). Use invisible thread to also boost your confidence for those occasional misses we all suffer!
Domestic machine quilters have an advantage over longarm quilters when it comes to stitching in the ditch. When using a domestic machine, one can use both hands to gently pull the seam apart. This allows the needle to place stitches on the "low side" of the seam, which become hidden when the fabric is released and the top fabric gently folds over the stitching.
However, longarm quilters must use guiding rulers to help them stay on target stitching next to seams and fabric folds. One hand must drive the machine while the other must hold the guiding ruler in position. To increase your success rate with a longarm machine, think about where you place your ruler before you begin to stitch.
If you place the guiding ruler on top of the seam allowance (the high side of the seam), then your hand's pressure causes the top fabric layer to fold over slightly and hide the space where you want your stitches to fall. You may think you're doing an excellent job of "staying in the ditch" until you remove your hand and ruler. Once the top fabric layer relaxes back into position, your stitches will appear to be too far away from the seam, even when they looked perfect just moments before!
Whenever possible, position your ruler on the low side of any seam (the side without the seam allowances underneath). Use invisible thread to also boost your confidence for those occasional misses we all suffer!
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Taking Photos of Quilts
Turn off your flash for great quilt detail photos.
The quilt show season is in full swing, and quilters everywhere will be sharing "oohs" and "aahs" as they ogle each of the quilts hanging proudly in the shows. We are inevitably struck with the beauty and originality of each work, and try to capture the essence of those which inspire us most with photographs.
Here are some tips to getting the most from your digital camera. You've discovered the first hint in the last sentence...get a digital camera! You'll find many inexpensive types on the market today; look for a model that allows you to turn off the flash, has a "macro" feature to get close up photos, and has at least 3 megapixels of memory. Digital cameras give you instant feedback; you are able to tell right away whether your photo illustrates what you want it to.
If you find the quilt's complete layout and design pleasing, stand back away from the quilt, and frame it inside your view screen. Depending on the venue's lighting, you may want to try a photo with flash first, and then turn the flash off. However, if you are more interested in the quilting stitches and design, you'll want to take close-up photos.
For these shots, you want to use the room's typical ceiling and side lights to your advantage. The shadows this lighting direction creates will define the quilting stitches and make them very dynamic in your photos. Turn your flash off. Move in to your close up area and try one photo, using your camera's zoom lens and automatic focus feature. If that photo is not crisp, use the macro feature of your camera. This special feature allows your camera to focus more clearly with very close objects.
Finally, consider taking photos of the quilts you DON'T like as well as those you do. Make notes about what you thought did and didn't work in each of the quilts, including color combinations, design layouts, and quilt density. Be sure to transfer your photos to your computer, or visit your nearest photo center if you need help getting them off your memory device. Store your photos in special folders on your computer labeled according to your categories to find them easily for your future design work.
Happy Quilt Show shooting.
The quilt show season is in full swing, and quilters everywhere will be sharing "oohs" and "aahs" as they ogle each of the quilts hanging proudly in the shows. We are inevitably struck with the beauty and originality of each work, and try to capture the essence of those which inspire us most with photographs.
Here are some tips to getting the most from your digital camera. You've discovered the first hint in the last sentence...get a digital camera! You'll find many inexpensive types on the market today; look for a model that allows you to turn off the flash, has a "macro" feature to get close up photos, and has at least 3 megapixels of memory. Digital cameras give you instant feedback; you are able to tell right away whether your photo illustrates what you want it to.
If you find the quilt's complete layout and design pleasing, stand back away from the quilt, and frame it inside your view screen. Depending on the venue's lighting, you may want to try a photo with flash first, and then turn the flash off. However, if you are more interested in the quilting stitches and design, you'll want to take close-up photos.
For these shots, you want to use the room's typical ceiling and side lights to your advantage. The shadows this lighting direction creates will define the quilting stitches and make them very dynamic in your photos. Turn your flash off. Move in to your close up area and try one photo, using your camera's zoom lens and automatic focus feature. If that photo is not crisp, use the macro feature of your camera. This special feature allows your camera to focus more clearly with very close objects.
Finally, consider taking photos of the quilts you DON'T like as well as those you do. Make notes about what you thought did and didn't work in each of the quilts, including color combinations, design layouts, and quilt density. Be sure to transfer your photos to your computer, or visit your nearest photo center if you need help getting them off your memory device. Store your photos in special folders on your computer labeled according to your categories to find them easily for your future design work.
Happy Quilt Show shooting.
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Quilt Fabric Tips
As much as quilters love buying new fabric, it's amazing how difficult it can be to actually bring ourselves to make the first cut into that beautiful yard of material!
If you are reluctant to get out the scissors to create audition pieces for your quilt, try making photocopies instead. You can do this by scanning the fabric into your computer with a flatbed scanner, or by using an all-in-one printer/copier attached to your computer.
If you don't have either of these devices, make the copies at your local office supply store or copy center.
First make several color copies of your fabric choices, and then make a few black and white copies as well. Cut apart the photocopies into your patches for your blocks and audition each one without endangering your actual fabric stash!
Once you have chosen fabrics that work well in your design, substitute the black and white photocopies for your patches. Since the color doesn't distract you in these copies, you can determine if the value and contrast in each fabric is correct, along with the scale and proportion of the prints.
Photocopies cost just a few pennies and are easily reproduced...but slicing into your fabric prematurely can be costly and traumatic!
If you are reluctant to get out the scissors to create audition pieces for your quilt, try making photocopies instead. You can do this by scanning the fabric into your computer with a flatbed scanner, or by using an all-in-one printer/copier attached to your computer.
If you don't have either of these devices, make the copies at your local office supply store or copy center.
First make several color copies of your fabric choices, and then make a few black and white copies as well. Cut apart the photocopies into your patches for your blocks and audition each one without endangering your actual fabric stash!
Once you have chosen fabrics that work well in your design, substitute the black and white photocopies for your patches. Since the color doesn't distract you in these copies, you can determine if the value and contrast in each fabric is correct, along with the scale and proportion of the prints.
Photocopies cost just a few pennies and are easily reproduced...but slicing into your fabric prematurely can be costly and traumatic!
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
Rotary Cutters
Rotary cutter blades are actually supposed to rotate! Many quilters mistakenly believe that the rotary cutter should perform like a knife, sawing through the fabric layers. However, a rotary cutter blade should turn freely, just like a pizza cutter.
If you have your locking screw set so tightly that the rotary cutter blade does not move, your blade and cutting mat will wear out prematurely, and you'll fatigue much more quickly as you try to "bear down" to cut through multiple fabric layers with a fixed blade. While you're at it, give your rotary cutter a little TLC and you'll reap the rewards of clean, crisp cuts.
Carefully disassemble your cutter, laying the pieces in sequential order on your table so that you can easily put it back together. If you're nervous about being able to reassemble it, put your digital camera to good use and snap photographs at each stage of disassembly to help guide you later.
Wipe lint buildup from behind the cutting blade. Next add one small drop of sewing machine oil (you may use the oil that came with your longarm) on the plastic surface that sits next to your blade. This small amount of lubrication prevents rust and keeps the blade spinning smoothly.
Reassemble the cutter, keeping in mind that the nut holding the blade should be loose enough that the blade rotates as you slice your fabric. If your cleaning and readjustment don't greatly improve your cutter's performance, it may be time for a new blade!
If you have your locking screw set so tightly that the rotary cutter blade does not move, your blade and cutting mat will wear out prematurely, and you'll fatigue much more quickly as you try to "bear down" to cut through multiple fabric layers with a fixed blade. While you're at it, give your rotary cutter a little TLC and you'll reap the rewards of clean, crisp cuts.
Carefully disassemble your cutter, laying the pieces in sequential order on your table so that you can easily put it back together. If you're nervous about being able to reassemble it, put your digital camera to good use and snap photographs at each stage of disassembly to help guide you later.
Wipe lint buildup from behind the cutting blade. Next add one small drop of sewing machine oil (you may use the oil that came with your longarm) on the plastic surface that sits next to your blade. This small amount of lubrication prevents rust and keeps the blade spinning smoothly.
Reassemble the cutter, keeping in mind that the nut holding the blade should be loose enough that the blade rotates as you slice your fabric. If your cleaning and readjustment don't greatly improve your cutter's performance, it may be time for a new blade!
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